Hotel Italia
Via Ghibellina 5/7
Cortona ( AR ), Toscana 52044
Italy
Tel: 0039-0575-630254
Fax: 0039-0575-605763
e-mail: hotelitalia@planhotel.com
Stayed in 2013. Nice hotel. Great location right next to the central Piazza, great restaurants all around.
Hotel Villa Steno
***
via Roma 109 – 19016 Monterosso al mare – Cinque Terre – Italy
Tel. (00)39 0187817028 Fax (00)39 0187817354
E.mail : steno@pasini.com
I really enjoyed this hotel when I stayed in 2013. The room was small but it was very clean, nice view, nice people and a good breakfast. They even have a little lemon and orange grove below the hotel that they make their own jam from that is served at breakfast and for sale.
After breakfast at the Minerva, we took a great walk to the Nobleman’s bath, a Roman ruin on the sea. Then we walked back to town and had a pizza at the Aurora in the main square followed by a visit to Standa and a walk back up the hill for happy hour on our terraces at the Minerva. Then wrapped up the evening with a walk back to town for dinner at St. Antonino’s and Gelato.
Yesterday, I took to the seas to take a look at the Cinque Terre from a new perspective. The boat left Monterossa for Vernazza where I spent a few hours wandering around. Vernazza is a pretty little town, maybe a good place to stay on a future trip. Then I hopped back on the boat to Riomaggiore, the southern most city, walked to the top of town (a long up hill climb). My plan was to walk from there to Manarolla, the last city in the region that I had not seen on this trip. However, I quickly learned that this trail was still closed from the 2011 flooding. So I opted for a walk up the mountain to a church at the very top for some of the most amazing views of the region I had seen yet (pics below). I took a different route back to town and panicked a few times that I might be off track but made it back just in time to catch the last boat to Monterosso where I had a nice dinner at Il Pozzo; awesome Insalate di Frutta di Mare, Trofie with Pesto and cinque Terre’s own white wine. Trofie is a special pasta that was invented specifically for the amazing pesto that is made in this region of Italy. The pasta and the pesto lived up to the hype. I also met a nice couple from Laguna Beach over dinner. Today, it’s off to Milan by train and Brussels by air.
I decided to take full advantage of the Cinque Terre today by walking from Moterosso (my home base) to Vernazza and then on to Corniglia. Not only was I treated to some amazing scenery but I surpassed my max. step count in a day. My new personal best is 25,832 steps. Some advice for others traveling to the Cinque Terre. Do not go to the main train station for your walking pass (required to walk of the trails). Instead, go to the start of the trail in any of the cities. Not only will you avoid the long lines at the station but you will have more options. For example, the station does not sell multiway passes whereas the trail head checkpoints do. The one in Monterosso is at the Hotel Porto Roca.
During my hike, I found a beach at Vernazza (through the cave looking tunnel towards the port) and a great bar for a Campari Orange (fresh squeezed juice) in Corniglia (the Caffe Mateo near the main square).
I wrapped up the day with a meal back in Monterosso at the Cantina Miky (owned by the same people as the Ristorante Miky from last night). I had fried Bakalla (salt cod) and spaghetti AI Frutta di Mare (mixed seafood).
Great day in the Cinque Terre.
I toured Parma a bit more then got on the road/rails to the Cinque Terre, 5 little cities on the northwestern coast of Italy. I took a train from Parma to La Spezia which is on the Southern end of the Cinque Terre. From La Spezia, I took a train to Monterossa which is the northern most “Terre.” One word of warning on dealing with the trains in the Cinque Terre. The platforms are very short since the towns are so small so you have to get off the train from one of the middle cars. If you are on a jammed train, as I was, this is difficult to do. So you have the option of trying to make your way to get off in the middle once the train stops or try to get to a middle car so you are ready when your stop comes. I opted to stand between cars where the exits are. A complication on my train was that many of the exit doors would not open. I ended up in front of a door that would not open in Monterossa and had to move to another car (with a million of my fellow travelers). As it turns out, the exit is to the right in the first 4 Terre and to the left in Monterossa. Just a standard train trip in Italy :-). I got a room at the Hotel Villa Steno which seems to be a great place up on the hill. My room has a balcony with a view of the sea (photo attached). I had a wonderful meal at a place called Miky (pronounced like Mickey). Of course it was very seafood based.
I got on the road today and travelled north to Parma which is considered by many to be the home of the best food in Italy. I think it is debatable as there is a great deal of amazing food in southern Italy as well. Parma is the home of Prosciutto, Parmigiana, Labrusco sparkling red wine and many other delicacies. I spent a big hunk of the day traveling, a trip that included a missed train thanks to Bologna’s system of two sets of tacks with the same numbers, one set labelled ovest (west); lesson learned. I had a great meal at a place I had not tried before. It’s called Gallo d’Oro and my meal consisted of prosciutto with some fantastic fried dough squares, Tortellini di Erbetto (ravioli like pasta stuffed with greens and ricotta) and pork checks flavored with balsamic vinegar; great meal! Also found a good hotel (The Button). Great location right in the middle of all the Parma action.
I spent the day touring Napoli. And of course the highlight was a lunch of the best pizza in the world at Da Michele which is one of the pizza places in Naples that claims to have invented pizza. I have to go back every time I am in the area to remind myself of how far apart Michele is from every other pizza I have ever tried; they have truly perfected the art. I also visited a jewelry shop in Piazza Municipio where I think my Father bought the watch that he gave me for my 50th birthday. It needed a new band so I thought I would pick one up in the same Piazza where he bought the watch originally almost 50 years ago.
The rest of my friends head home early tomorrow morning. We spent the day in Sorrento taking in everything the city has to offer; some last minute shopping (Sandy even had her sandals made while we watched and I picked up Pop’s Provolone Picante), a mozzarella party on my room 505 balcony at the Minerva including Pastries from Monica’s (best in Sorrento) and dinner at Z’intonio Mare down in the Marina Grande.
Thanks again to all my great friends for an incredible time! Let’s do it again soon!
There & Back Again - A Traveler's Tale 