Hotel Villa Steno
***
via Roma 109 – 19016 Monterosso al mare – Cinque Terre – Italy
Tel. (00)39 0187817028 Fax (00)39 0187817354
E.mail : steno@pasini.com
I really enjoyed this hotel when I stayed in 2013. The room was small but it was very clean, nice view, nice people and a good breakfast. They even have a little lemon and orange grove below the hotel that they make their own jam from that is served at breakfast and for sale.
Yesterday, I took to the seas to take a look at the Cinque Terre from a new perspective. The boat left Monterossa for Vernazza where I spent a few hours wandering around. Vernazza is a pretty little town, maybe a good place to stay on a future trip. Then I hopped back on the boat to Riomaggiore, the southern most city, walked to the top of town (a long up hill climb). My plan was to walk from there to Manarolla, the last city in the region that I had not seen on this trip. However, I quickly learned that this trail was still closed from the 2011 flooding. So I opted for a walk up the mountain to a church at the very top for some of the most amazing views of the region I had seen yet (pics below). I took a different route back to town and panicked a few times that I might be off track but made it back just in time to catch the last boat to Monterosso where I had a nice dinner at Il Pozzo; awesome Insalate di Frutta di Mare, Trofie with Pesto and cinque Terre’s own white wine. Trofie is a special pasta that was invented specifically for the amazing pesto that is made in this region of Italy. The pasta and the pesto lived up to the hype. I also met a nice couple from Laguna Beach over dinner. Today, it’s off to Milan by train and Brussels by air.
I decided to take full advantage of the Cinque Terre today by walking from Moterosso (my home base) to Vernazza and then on to Corniglia. Not only was I treated to some amazing scenery but I surpassed my max. step count in a day. My new personal best is 25,832 steps. Some advice for others traveling to the Cinque Terre. Do not go to the main train station for your walking pass (required to walk of the trails). Instead, go to the start of the trail in any of the cities. Not only will you avoid the long lines at the station but you will have more options. For example, the station does not sell multiway passes whereas the trail head checkpoints do. The one in Monterosso is at the Hotel Porto Roca.
During my hike, I found a beach at Vernazza (through the cave looking tunnel towards the port) and a great bar for a Campari Orange (fresh squeezed juice) in Corniglia (the Caffe Mateo near the main square).
I wrapped up the day with a meal back in Monterosso at the Cantina Miky (owned by the same people as the Ristorante Miky from last night). I had fried Bakalla (salt cod) and spaghetti AI Frutta di Mare (mixed seafood).
Great day in the Cinque Terre.
I toured Parma a bit more then got on the road/rails to the Cinque Terre, 5 little cities on the northwestern coast of Italy. I took a train from Parma to La Spezia which is on the Southern end of the Cinque Terre. From La Spezia, I took a train to Monterossa which is the northern most “Terre.” One word of warning on dealing with the trains in the Cinque Terre. The platforms are very short since the towns are so small so you have to get off the train from one of the middle cars. If you are on a jammed train, as I was, this is difficult to do. So you have the option of trying to make your way to get off in the middle once the train stops or try to get to a middle car so you are ready when your stop comes. I opted to stand between cars where the exits are. A complication on my train was that many of the exit doors would not open. I ended up in front of a door that would not open in Monterossa and had to move to another car (with a million of my fellow travelers). As it turns out, the exit is to the right in the first 4 Terre and to the left in Monterossa. Just a standard train trip in Italy :-). I got a room at the Hotel Villa Steno which seems to be a great place up on the hill. My room has a balcony with a view of the sea (photo attached). I had a wonderful meal at a place called Miky (pronounced like Mickey). Of course it was very seafood based.
There & Back Again - A Traveler's Tale 